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Visuals & texts ©Hannu Lehmusvuori



Week 34/98

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The Sun Also Rises
SUNRISE 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon
Concha y Toro
Central Valley - Chile
$ 7.35
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Goncha y Toro always offers a safe landing site. Now, after all the vacationing and celibrating, the offering is an everyday wine of great value. It won't be 'the ruin of many a poor boy' or girl - unless you fancy it all too often, which is a tempting idea.
Pablo Morandé's treatment of this young sauvignon exhibits great balance. The fruity grape is there classically, bends nimbly, and lets you enjoy a rich, medium-bodied wine with pleasing acids. The grape simply is there as it should. And the last third of your mouth, after a few seconds from your sip, experiences a nice, though mild and short, aftertaste, just to let you know that what happened previously on your pleased palate was no mistake. Here we have exceptional value. My tastebuds reveal no oak - unless it's just the subliminal kind that gives softness. And my nose likes the strong, fruity scents of a pure sauvignon. Plus I wouldn't be me, if I didn't give credit to the little hints of spices in the taste. So, I do.
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